If you're planting seedlings, aim to get them in the ground within a few days. If that's not possible, store them in their original bag in a cool, shaded area. Keep the wood shavings damp—add a splash of water if needed. For delays longer than a few days, “heel in” the seedlings in a shaded trench or garden bed. We don’t recommend potting bare-root trees unless absolutely necessary.

If you're planting seeds, keep them refrigerated in a bag with moist peat moss or sand until you’re ready to sow. Seeds can remain viable for several months this way.

Use pots at least 10–12 inches deep to allow for taproot growth. Fill with a soilless mix: equal parts peat moss, perlite, and vermiculite. Pre-moisten the mix in a separate container—think dough consistency, not soup.

Plant seeds ½ to 1 inch deep, with the root tip (radicle) pointing sideways or slightly downward. Never point it up. Cover lightly and place the pot in a warm, sunny location. Water sparingly at first—too much moisture before sprouting can cause rot. Seeds typically sprout in 1 to 3 weeks.

As the seedling grows, increase watering slightly but let the surface soil dry out between waterings. Watch for mold, wilting, or damping off.

When your seedling reaches six to ten inches tall and the risk of frost has passed, it’s time to move it outside. Before transplanting, harden it off by placing it outdoors for a few hours each day, increasing exposure to sun and wind over one to two weeks.

Choose a planting site with full sun and well-drained, slightly acidic soil. Dig a hole deep enough to accommodate the roots and about twice as wide. Gently spread out the roots in the hole and refill with soil, pressing it down to remove air pockets. Water thoroughly after planting.

Mulch with shredded leaves or pine needles to retain moisture and maintain acidity. Keep the mulch a few inches away from the stem to avoid rot. If any part of the nut is still attached at the base, remove it to prevent attracting rodents.

You can also plant seeds directly outdoors in early spring, once the soil can be worked and temperatures stay above freezing. Choose a location with full sun and good drainage. Clear a two to three foot area of grass and weeds. Loosen the soil to a depth of at least eight inches and mix in compost.

Dig a shallow hole, around half an inch to one inch deep. Place the seed with the root tip pointing sideways or down, and gently cover it with soil. Water lightly to settle the soil. If planting in the fall, strong wildlife protection is a must.

Chestnut seeds and seedlings are vulnerable to many animals, including mice, voles, deer, and rabbits. The best protection is a mesh cage made from quarter-inch hardware cloth. Create a cylinder around the tree, secure it with wire or zip ties, and anchor it with stakes. Sink the cage two to four inches into the ground to prevent burrowing pests. Avoid plastic tree tubes during the growing season, as they can trap heat and moisture and cause abnormal growth.

During the first year, water regularly but don’t let the soil stay saturated. Let the surface dry slightly between waterings. Keep weeds and competing vegetation away from the base of the tree. A two to three foot weed-free zone makes a big difference. Mulch or landscape fabric can help with this, but check for vole activity underneath.

Don’t fertilize right away. Wait until the tree is well established or follow the recommendations of a soil test. Chestnuts do best with slightly acidic soil, and sometimes yellowing leaves are a sign that the pH is too high. If needed, amend the soil with elemental sulfur or aluminum sulfate following product instructions.

Chestnut trees need space to thrive. For long-term planting, leave twenty-five to thirty feet between trees. In orchard settings, it’s common to plant closer—around ten feet apart in rows and twenty feet between rows—and thin out the weaker trees later on.

Regular monitoring for pests such as Japanese beetles, gall wasps, or spongy moth caterpillars is important. Use non-chemical control methods where possible, and reserve pesticides for serious infestations.

Chestnut trees are hardy once established, but early care is critical. With attention to soil, moisture, sunlight, and protection, your seeds and seedlings have a strong chance to grow into healthy, resilient trees that can live for generations.

If you need help or have questions, email us anytime at orders@americastrees.com — we’re here to support you and the future of the American chestnut.